Dodge Journey Drivers Door Lock Problem
Carl’s Corner – Auto Repair HelpDIAGNOSE – POWER DOOR LOCKS DON’T WORK PROPERLYBy CarlO’ReillySYMPTOM SUMMARY The power door locks are all inoperative or a single door lock is inoperative.USUAL CAUSE The power door locks utilize individual solenoids in each of the doors that activate the door lock mechanism. The switch provides power to the door lock solenoids.
To lock the doors the switch provides voltage to the two terminals of the solenoid. To unlock the doors the switch reverses the polarity of the voltage applied to the solenoid. An inoperative power door lock can be caused by the switch, solenoid, wiring problem or mechanical problem within the linkage of the affected door.DIAGNOSIS If all of the door locks are inoperative, start your diagnosis at the fuse box. Inspect the fuse that protects the door lock circuit to ensure it is not blown. Consult the fuse box placard or your owners manual for fuse designations and ratings. Operate each door lock switch in the vehicle to determine if the doors can be locked with any of the switches.
If the doors lock with any one switch the most likely problem is a defective switch on the door that is inoperative. If all of the door lock switches are functional but one door fails to operate, the most likely problem is an open circuit in the circuit between the switch and solenoid or a defective solenoid in the affected door.
You should listen to the affected door while energizing the door lock. If a click is heard but the lock did not engage, a problem with the door lock mechanism or linkage is the most likely cause.PRECAUTIONS, TIPS, and NOTES An inspection of the rubber boot and wiring harness that connects from the door frame and the door can often reveal wiring damage. A volt meter, available at any auto parts store, can be used to check the voltage to the individual lock solenoids and switches. Refer to the meters instruction for proper usage and precautions. Continued in. My 1997 2500 Suburban has a different twist.The lock/unlock switch on the driver side arm rest will not activate the door locks.But. They all function automatically by locking when the truck is started and placed in gear and by unlocking when the truck is shut off.I checked the fuse box and found #13 fuse blown.
It pops immediately when a fuse is installed.It is labeled “cig liter” but the cigarette lighter works even when this fuse is unplugged.I metered the fuse slot and see the top terminal is hot (12v) and the lower peg is a hard ground.I tore the driver door apart and inspected all wires and found nothing apparent. I even replaced the door lock switch but it didn’t change anything. I now have a spare, I believe.This problem started while at the dealer getting a winter service. They kept it for 5 days and returned it un-repaired but without any cost.Anyone have an idea how to troubleshoot this?I am also having intermittent problems with the rear barn door lock. It is intermittent – so I took that door apart and disconnected the solenoid.
It won’t lock, but I don’t have to crawl over seats to get it open.Please let me know if I am missing something or if any of you have seen something similar.My email –Happy New Year – and best wishes for the entire year. I started having the same problems after it rained one night. The Rubber seal that goes around my passenger front door on the top front was torn and hanging down inside the car right over all the buttons on the side of the car that control the windows in the doors. I have to manually lock in and lock all my doors but a strange thing happens when I try to lock the doors from the driver’s side button they won’t do anything and the button doesn’t make any noise and it looks like I can see light down underneath the button in the dark.
So as I was driving just a little ways all of a sudden I heard the noise of the switch and I thought Oh weird it automatically locked all my doors. But when I turned on the light know they were all unlocked. Now I’m thinking that the two times recently that I manually locked all the doors and I came back out and they were all unlocked it was because the car even though it was turned off activated the lock and unlock all the doors by itself. Either that or I have a poltergeist in the car LOL.
Hi Carl – I’m trying to help a friend diagnose door lock problems with his 2008 Chevy Malibu. The interesting aspect of his problem is that when he first gets into the car, he can actuate (open/close) all four door locks. If he tries doing it again, only three of the door locks actuate. If he tries it yet again, only two actuate. He gets to the point where only the right rear door lock functions. It’s also the case that each time he actuates the system, there is sound in the other lock solenoids, but it gets weaker with each actuation. If he turns the car off and then on again immediately, this situation persists (i.e.
Only the right rear door lock works). However, if he lets the car sit long enough (I’m not sure how long is long enough), the system seems to reset and the same pattern as described above reoccurs.To me it sounds like whatever device (solid state relay in the body control module?) is supplying the current to actuate the solenoids is able to supply sufficient current the first time the system is actuated but then degrades with each subsequent actuation. Stated differently, I’m wondering if some device in the body control module is failing such that each actuation results in it having a reduced capacity to supply current. Have you ever heard of such a thing?Thanks,Jim.
Hey Kev,more than likely the actuators are out, You-tube for a disassembly video on your truck. You can either rebuild the actuators by an extra 20 minute per unit, time investment, as the resistor goes bad, and that entails breaking open the little drive motor and wrapping resistor in foil and placing back, from the comments, ppl say this fix last for the life of the truck.
You can You tube that actuator rebuild also, there’s some great stuff there which will help you way more than a black and white Haynes manual with poor grainy photos. That will save $35-40 per actuator or just you can buy new actuators online or via local parts store. I’ve had several fleet F250s with power locks and you can tell they are going out as they start to get weak. While you have your door apart, make sure you lubricate all plastic parts with silicone, all metal parts with a light grease or oil. The less resistance this whole assembly has the longer I believe it will last. I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan. Whether using the key remote, or the button inside the van, the 2 sliding doors may or may not lock/unlock.
There’s no real rhyme or reason as to when they work. You can hear the sound, and sometimes see a slight movement, but they do not always lock or unlock.If this is not something I can fix myself, do I take the vehicle to a mechanic or someone special? My vehicle was just gotten into last night (probably a crime of opportunity) and my GPS was stolen and I’m getting annoyed. First I must ask why you wouldn’t take the car back to the dealer and make it their problem on such a new vehicle? The best way to diagnose and repair would be to first remove the right front inside door panel. Since it doesn’t respond to the key fob or the power lock switch the problem is in the lock solenoid or the wiring to the solenoid. I would guess on such a new vehicle the harness connector just came unplugged from the solenoid (or actuator).
With a volt meter you should have 12 volts at 1 wire going into the solenoid and ground at the other wire. These 2 wires just reverse polarity when you attempt to reverse the direction of the locks, either lock or unlock. I you have 12 volts and a ground then the solenoid is defective. Carl – Love your insight! I hope you can shed some light on this mystery2004 Honda Accord (4dr)Symptom #1: – when locking/unlocking the car with key fob, key or inside driver door switch, the driver side door will lock/unlock. The other 3 doors remain unaffected. All three doors went out at the same moment.Symptom #2: – After the driver side door is unlocked, within 1 min, the door will lock.
This happens if the door is open, or closed, whether the car is running or not. This is not the standard Honda safety auto-locking feature. This is a random locking within 1 min or less. I suspect that this started to occur at the same time as Symptom #1, though I didn’t notice it until I locked myself out of the car (while running) a week later.Thanks in advance for the help. Yes I got my locks working again but it was a total fluke. I was checking all my fluids under the hood and noticed the battery cables had some corrosion built up. Long story short, the battery was not connected for about 20 or 30 minutes.
After finishing the clean up a connecting the battery back up I started resetting my presets on the stereo, getting out as a joke I pushed the door lock button and they WORKED!! The only reason I can give is something reset or a relay became unstuck when the power was disconnected. I hope you have the same dumb luck I had on this! I’d say check the battery cables and if they are clean unhook them for a while, haha it might just work!! Hi i have a ford fiesta 1.3 2002 mk6 i have trouble code 1310 in the gem module i have used a scan to to manually operate the central locking and boot and individually tested each door and all seem to be working and also through my 3rd party alarm the central locking works but it will not work at all through the key interior latches and the boot relese in the dash will not work i have also tried a different module with the same faultand using the built in test function nothing happens on any of the door latches cheers shane.
Hello — my passenger side door unlocks manually with no problem, locks with the switch on the driver’s side door no problem. The driver’s side door used to open manually, but now I cannot get it to open using my key.
It has never unlocked by using the power switch (I have to pull it up by hand), nor does it lock by using the power switch.In order to lock ANY doors, I have always had to hold the driver’s side inside door handle out while pressing down on the power lock button on the driver’s side door.As of late, the driver’s side door not only will not unlock by using my key, but now, when I go in from the passenger side and pull up on the button, as soon as I pull on the door handle, it automatically locks the driver’s side door. So I discovered that I have to pull out the inside driver’s side door handle while pulling up on the lock button at the same time, then throw the door wide open and hope that it stays open.Do I have one main problem going on here, or a few? Hello i have a 95 Nissan Sentra and I have been having problems with the doors locking and unlocking by itself. Im finally fed up with it today someone actually ransacked my car and left all the doors wide open although they did not take anything.
I do not want my car to be missing one of these days. So to begin my window switches on both the passenger doors do not work.
Door Lock Parts Description
My main switch has been programmed to where I had to rewire the rear passenger button to be able to control my driver side window but the problem has been going on long before I had to do this. Thanks ahead of time.
I have a 2003 Nissan Micra 3dr (new shape) – since buying it this April I’ve had nothing but trouble withthe driver front door – sometimes I unlock the door and it doesn’t unlock properly, sometimes I lock it and it doesn’t lock – the passenger door and boot all lock fine. At the beginning, the central locking system was going AWOL and would click hen I turned a corner or something like that but since changing the battery in the remote this has not happened. I’ve taken it to a Nissan dealership and they said it was the door lock actuator as it still makes the locking noise but doesn’t lock. They wanted around £180 for the part and to fit it but couldn’t 100% guarantee that that would fix the problem. PLEASE HELP ME. If there is a chance that it could be done NOT by a mechanic then please let me know. I have a 2005 Honda Civic EX.
My door lock aren’t working properly. My door lock remote is fine as far as the battery goes. I changed out a door switch on the driver side which didn’t help either. This is a 4 dr sedan. I can hear all 3 doors clicking except the driver side front door. Does the front driver side door link to all the other doors?
I figured that the door actuators only pertain to each door. Not sure what the issue is? I wouldn’t think it’s a fuse only because I can hear the 3 doors clicking. Now, again, the front driver side door I can’t hear any clicking. Can you tell me what my next step should be? I have a 1986 Chevy Silverado K10 with auto door locks.
It has an aftermarket alarm which activates the door locks with the remote keyless entry. The door locks began not opening – – keyless entry will disarm but the door locks don’t open; I have to lock/unlock the door with the key. My friend, who owns the company that installed the alarm system, took a look at it and says it is in the truck, not the alarm system or alarm wiring.This was intermittent a couple of times – took it to him twice and the locks mysteriously started working again.
I went to start it today and the battery was dead. When I hook a battery booster to it, the locks pulse every 30 seconds or so like they are trying to unlock, but they don’t unlock.
I assume this is what killed the battery.I disconnected the battery and have it on a trickle charger. Any ideas where to start looking when the battery is charged?Thanks! Howdy,I have a ’92 Nissan Pathfinder and it’s been at the shop for 2 months now, off and on. When I first took it there all locks worked properly but one window wouldn’t operate by itself; had to operate it from master switch on driver’s side.
I’ve spent quite a bit so far; to no avail; Corporate Nissan says it’s too old or try another dealer; I don’t buy that. Please help this 79yr old Great Grandpa/DAV/US Army/7yrs/’50s. Nissan has all the parts because I inquired at that office and they emailed me a list of any parts, etc I might require to solve the issues.
Many thanks and God Bless. Please call me!!
I have a 2013 Hyundai Tucson and have a problem with the cargo door. It has stayed lock for a little while now and only the key fob can unlock it. When the car is on or when the key is in and I open the driver’s side door, it will make the unlock sound (3x) but will not actually unlock. I have taken it to the dealership as it is under warranty.
They told me that there’s a failure with the door lock assembly. I would just like to know your professional insight on this issue and how this can be fixed. They are taking a long time to address my warranty claim and I am just patiently (almost losing it) waiting. Thank you so much for your help.
It has been seen by 2 garages and no one can figure out what is causing the draw. Obviously it's an electrical issue. I have no alarm and no aftermarket stereo.
Since that is usually the biggest issue we pulled the fuse so no radio, no clock. It still drains. One day while approaching my car I noticed my horn was going off. Got in the car, started it, started driving and my horn was honking all the home. Pulled out another 2 fuses. Several times I have walked past my car in the garage and noticed the Dodge sign illuminated on the dash. I have to open and close the front passenger door for it to go out.
I know this is causing the drain but I fear by pulling the fuse I will lose the whole dash computer panel and I have to know what speed I am going and how much gas in my car.Also when starting I have to wiggle the gear shift for it to start. Twice when driving just 10 mph and slowly down for a stop sign, the car locked up, I lost the power steering and gas. I was on a dry road. Had to coast the car to the other side of the road.
Stop and restart. That is just plain dangerous. I will getting a no Dodge vehicle as soon as I have paid off my truck. Can't believe 2 garages had it for a week and can't find what is making a draw. Original review: Oct. 14, 2019I bought my 2013 Journey 10/12 and everything was fine until the warranty expired.
Since then my car refuses to start. I am constantly getting this NO BUSS msg and a -40 temp reading. I replaced the battery and it worked for a few weeks then right back to NO BUSS. I had the leads to the fuse box replaced, sensors replaced, another new battery and the car will not run for more than 2 days. As soon as I touch the door handle the back wiper starts going the climate inside turns on and the dash all lights up but the car will not start and the wipers/climate will not turn off! I disconnected my battery to stop it.
I left for work and 1 hour later my neighbor calls me to tell me my car turned itself on in the driveway! It's been in the shop AGAIN for 2 months now and still not working. What a waste of money:(. Original review: April 23, 2019I got my 2013 Dodge Journey in June of 2018. Had it a year now but when I got it I noticed when pushing the button to start it it would not turn over so I took it back and the salesman had no problems but looked at me as if I was stupid but it kept doing this so I wanted a new starter and they put a new one in and it still does it and I have noticed that my panel lights come on when I'm sitting with nothing on. They come on and go off and my cruise control works when it wants to and I get really bad gas mileage and I use my car for security work so besides driving 16 miles five days a week I'm using a lot of gas doing patrols as well. I don't know if a tune up or oil change will help and since I'm still paying on it I can t trade it in.
Maybe Dodge should buy everyone who has these death trap cars different ones cause now I'm stuck with this car and I do worry about my safety. Original review: Feb. 17, 2019I bought a used 2017 Journey from a dealer. Ran well for the first couple months. As of 2/22/2019, I will have had this car for a year. Over the last 4 or 5 months, I have found that I am having to jump start the car every morning.
I have been to the dealer twice now and several other auto shops. All of which tell me they cannot find a problem and that the battery and charging system all test fine. I am now on my 3d battery in less than 4 months. I refuse to believe I am buying that many bad batteries in a row. Upon getting out of the car, I have also noticed that the dash lights will go off and on continually which I feel is also a problem. Yet no explanation from the dealer or anyone as to why this is happening also.
It's like the car is not fully shutting down and the electronics are killing the battery every night. The dealer did replace my battery with the biggest battery they could just to appease me and get me out of their hair. But yet it was dead again that next morning. Dealer has refused to look at it anymore and has referred me to other dealers. I'm now left with a newer car that I am making payments on for the next several years that has to be jump started every time I wish to go somewhere. Absolutely sad excuse for a vehicle.
And after reading all the reviews on this model of Dodge, I am now ashamed to say that I am stuck with a piece of crap. And this is only one of the issues I am having with the car. Original review: Jan.
23, 2019I purchased my 2015 Dodge Journey SXT in 2015 with 16,000 miles on it. The car worked fine until 55,000 miles. I had to have the radiator fan replaced, 3 motor mounts, computer replaced, front struts replaced, battery replaced and more. Thankfully I had an extended warranty because the car took about a month to repair.
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I would have had to pay out of pocket above $5,000-$7000 in costs. No issues with the dealer but beware of this car. It will cost you $$ without a warranty. So I traded it in for a Honda Pilot. I hope the Pilot is a more reliable SUV. Original review: Sept.
4, 2018I recently returned my 2012 Dodge Journey due to the fact that upon inspection after two years of owning, they discovered it has frame damage! The rear bumper was starting to separate from the vehicle, which sparked my curiosity as to why this was happening! Apparently the vehicle had been in an accident prior to my purchasing! Which was not disclosed upon purchasing, obviously no dealership will disclose this information due to the simple fact they will not get the sale! I am very disappointed with my purchase hence my returning of the vehicle!
I will to be disputing the voluntary repossession as they stated will stay on my credit report for 7 to 10 years! If this is the way this company does business, then I advise the buyer beware! At ConsumerAffairs we love to hear from both consumers and brands; please never hesitate to. We take privacy seriously, please refer to our to learn more about how we keep you protected. You’re responsible for yourself and please remember that your use of this site constitutes acceptance of our.Advertisements on this site are placed and controlled by outside advertising networks.
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